IN ITALY: Lago Maggiore Day 2

THE BIRDS of ISOLA MADRE
April 12, 2011

Of the three Borromee islands in Lake Maggiore,  Isola Bella is the closest to the mainland and the most often visited.  If you have time for only one island this is the must see of the three. That said, it bears the heaviest traffic and therefore has great crowding and competition for the less than 1.5 square miles of exquisite space that includes an historic palace museum, an unparalleled terrace garden and a tiny warren of streets that make-up what is village-Bella.



My choice of the three Borromee Islands is Isola Madre.  Why ?



It is the furthest from Stresa, the main departure point for the ferries which are the only way to get to the islands.  These run every 30 minutes.  Because of this, Madre has the least people traffic and in the early morning, on the 8:30am ferry,  a visitor can often have the entire island to herself.

There exotic birds of every variety and color roam free.

IN ITALY: Lago Maggiore Day 1

GREAT DINING EXPERIENCES

When I allow myself a contemplative moment away from chasing the adrenhlin rush of a Milan Maratona or the sentiero de Mottarone my mind seems to settle on meals.  Why is that?

Perhaps it is because my life is travel and I never separate Life from food. 

This evening I had one of my best meals in Italy.  As is often the case, it was accidental and without reservation.  It was on a magical tiny island called Isola Superiore dei Pescatori which sits prettily in the Italian lake called Maggiore.

The restaurant is called Verbano and from it's terrace it commands views of Isola Bella and Isola Madre along with the mainland cities of Stresa and Baveno.

It is an old ristorante dating from 1895, and has served many other accidental tourists before me.  I am not the first to enjoy the quality of the food and the warm hospitality of its hosts.  There will be others after me who will have the same happy pleasure. 

Perhaps it is because of this history that Verbano no longer needs to chase yield management quotas to encourage more than the other four diners enjoying the evening with us.  Perhaps it is this long practice that makes the military carriage of the starched maroon vested waiters seem flawless.

The amazing aspect is that this world can exist only 50 minutes from the bustling center of Milano.   Then again, maybe it is because of its proximity to this potential mass market that it can exist.  Whatever the case, I am happy with my momentary good fortune.   I have had a wondeful meal, superbily executed while watching the sunset on Lago Maggiore before the IHC Group purchases it and it succumbs to numbered oblivion.

11 April 2011

IN ITALY: La Maratona di Milano

ITALIAN MARATHON #10

Two commonly asked questions of marathoners are  "How many miles is this one?" and "Why do you do it?"

Let's start with the first question.  "How many miles is this one?" indicates lack of knowledge of the event.  This is not a bad thing.  It would be similar to someone asking "How long is a 50K?"

Every marathon must be 26.2 miles or 42km.  That's the distance established by the Greeks and no one has argued with them.

By asking how-many-miles you simply indicate you don't run and that's okay.

The second question, "Why do you do it?"  Now this is meaty.  Everytime I get asked and that is many times, I stop, I ponder, I reasses and oft times the answer changes.

I started running marathons because I needed a daily cardiovascular regime to be at my peak for my main passion at that time,  mountaineering.   Since I was not in a position to climb a mountain everyday to be at my best,  I found I could go out and run my neighborhood to accomplish what I needed and thus my running life started.  That was 1993.

Today's marathon will be my 160th marathon.   I have never run the same marathon twice; 159 different cities, 159 dfferent courses, a marathon in every U.S. State, pretty much every California marathon and now my tenth Italian marathon.

Simetimes I run for the enjoyment of a blindingly beautful course such as California Highway 1,  closed except to runners from Big Sur to Carmel, or crossing the Grand Canal in Venice via a pontoon bridge only for runners.

Somtimes I run because I love to eat expensive dinners and a marathon distance allows me to collect Michelin dining experiences without guilt.

Sometimes I run because there is virtue in doing what is hard.  One of my primary focuses in Life is to do things that require more effort rather than less.

I am endlessly enriched by new sights, by new conversations with other runners,  by the new friends these runners become,  by taking to the road and adapting to the unknown.

IN ITALY: Arrival Milano

ARRIVALS

The departure euphoria from yesterday "seems so far away."  I realized halfway across the Atlantic that I forgot my black belt and start practicing, "Signorina, dove si trova un negozio per comprare una cintura nera, per favore?"

I will wait until I get to the hotel front desk before I throw that queston out to the citizenery of Milano.  The ticket vendor for the Malpensa Express Train would feign stunned incomprehension and my fellow riders on the train are as jetlagged as I and with complete comprehension would tell me to try contacting home.

But, ah ha, I don't want to contact home.  I am separated by a continent, an ocean, a language, a culture from the safety of the familiar.  My ego will be tested by my inabilty to sound like the intelligent, clear thinking individual I know myself to be.  I will do many untoward things which will make be out to be a bumpkin.

I have placed myself in that blssful state of thankful humbleness which each world traveler has the first moment she steps onto foreign soil and knows she must rely on the generousity of strangers.

I have arrived in Milano, Italy's main northern gateway and the center of Italian fashion and commerce.   It is a bright, warm Spring morning and I am counting my blessings.....after which I will look for a black belt to keep my pants up so that I look only half a bumpkin. 

ON THE ROAD TO ITALY

DEPARTURE DAY

The expectation of jet travel continues to thrill and amaze me.  I am fortunate to call travel my career.  I am habituated to packing my bag, grabbing my passport, going out the door and making a course that I have made a thousand times before.

Does that sound like your every-morning?  Get up, grab your briefcase head out the door and take the same habitual route to the office?  

Here's the difference.  When I get on to Century Boulevard and see the signs with the airplane in lift-off position and the word DEPARTURE, I get an adrenalin rush like a Starbucks double shot.

Will my flight leave on time?
What if I miss my connection?
Did I bring my ATM?
What if my seat mate is 396 lbs?
Did I complete the project detail I had promised that client?
What if it rains everyday?
What if I get sick on day three?
Did I remember the battery recharger?
Will I make a social blunder that will brand me the ugly American?

Now the angst is beginning to make me rethink why it is I have put myself in harms way by taking to the road, why didn't I just grab the briefcase instead of the suitcase.

Then it happens.  I see a jet plane lift-off toward the Pacific Ocean and I realize the miracle of what I am about to do.  In 12, 13, 15 hours I will be in Milan.

Thank you Boeing!

ONE DAY BEFORE DEPARTURE

THE PACKING SYNDROME

There are many approaches to the what to take-what not to take argument of packing. 

In my many years of traveling light and enjoying it, I have found the following to be the best methods to pack sensibly.

(1)  Wait until the day before departure to bring out the suitcase(s).  Under no circumstances consider a shopping spree and new wardrobe for any trip or any destination.  If you don't have it in your closet, trust that you can fix any shortfall with an interesting souvenir purchase while on your trip.
       I arrived in Birmingham, Alabama in a snow storm, new?  Even the locals had no idea what snow looked like.  Needless to say, I did not have an appropriate jacket.  Because I only needed a one day fix, I went to the local Goodwill and found a hooded quilted jacket for $6.
Ask me if I felt like the smartest traveler in the universe.

(2) Packing the day before your trip shortens the opportunity to over stuff.  

(3) Last minute preparations equal making due with what's on hand.

(4)  I have a Two-Rule.  No more than two of any type of clothing.   Two pairs of shoes, two pairs of bottoms (slacks, jeans, skirt, etc), two color integrated tops, two second layer tops (i.e., jacket, sweater), two pairs of undies.

(5) Embrace self-laundering.   The hotel soap you use on yourself works equally well on any clothing.  If I towel wring my articles, they are dry within a couple of hours. 

(6) Remember, you will seldom see anyone during your trip more than twice.  They will not remember you are wearing the same thing over and over.  If anyone does recognize your repetitive wardrobe, they will most likely think how astute and disciplined you are to do with less.

(7) Take only what you can carry.   Injury from lifting heavy items during a trip can be ruinous to you and your enjoyment.

(8) Because I can travel with everything in a backpack, I do not have to check luggage which can be lost.

(9) If you travel often, keep your essentials in always-packed-mode.

My flight departs for Italy tomorrow morning at 7:00am.  I will push the button on my packing at 8:00pm this evening.  Will I worry that I have forgotten something?  Of course. 

However, my happiest moment will be finding a suitable replacement for whatever that item might be in an unfamiliar city, in an interesting new shop and most importantly, engaging the kindness of a stranger to aid me in my search. 

APRIL HOLIDAYS & FESTIVALS IN ITALY

TWO DAYS BEFORE DEPARTURE

In preparation for my annual visit to Italy, I always check for holidays and festivals. These moments of celebration are often a cause for detour as they capture the Italians at their best: enjoying life.

April is universally a special month as there are many Spring festivals. This year, of course, Italians will celebrate holy Easter as well. Here are a list of the major events:

April 25 is a national holiday celebrating liberation day in Italy. Some services may be closed but there will be festivals and concerts in many places.

April 24, Easter, Pasqua. Italian Easter celebrations start during the week before Easter and continue through Easter Monday, La Pasquetta, a national holiday and a day where you may find some very interesting festivals.


EASTER IN ITALY
Palio della Rana, golden frog race, takes place the Sunday after Easter in the town of Fermignano in the Marche region. Contestants race with frogs in tiny wheelbarrows. The day before there is usually a pageant in historical costume and a fireworks show.

Il Giuramento di Pontida: In early April, there is a historical re-enactment of the alliance between the Lombard cities of Bergamo, Brescia, Mantova, and Cremona against Federico Barbarossa on April 7, 1167. The town of Pontida is 16km from Bergamo.

Rome's birthday: The date of Rome's founding (in 753BC) is celebrated on April 21 so if you're in Rome, watch for festivals, concerts, and special events. There's usually a fireworks display over the Tiber River and gladiator shows around the forum area.

Saint George's Day: In Caresana in the Piedmont region, Saint George's Day on April 23 is celebrated with the Palio dei Buoi, a parade of floats pulled by oxen. Saint George is the patron saint of farmworkers.

Festival of San Marco: Saint Mark, San Marco, is the patron saint of Venice and there is a festival in Saint Mark's Square on April 25 including a procession to the basilica. On this day in Venice you should give a rose to your loved one.

The Race of the Ring: The Corsa all'anello in Narni in the Umbria region is part of the celebrations held the last week of April. During this medieval jousting competition, three horsemen try to snare rings.

San Biagio Day is April 28. San Biagio, the patron saint of Avetrana in southern Puglia, is celebrated with a 2-day festival including bands, food, street fair, and a religious procession. Avetrana and San Biagio Festival Pictures

Free Museums and Archeological Sites
In mid-April the Italian Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Activities sponsors Settimana della Cultura, Week of Culture. National museums and archeological sites have free admission and some have special events and guided tours. Sites not normally open to the public are sometimes opened during this week, too. Check the web site (in Italian) for dates and events.

Food festivals
Look for the word sagra, for artichokes, carciofi and asparagus, asparagi, in many parts of Italy in April. One of the best artichoke festivals is in Ladispoli near Rome during the second weekend of April. The famous white asparagus of Bassano del Grappa in the Verona province gets a week of events starting at the end of April. The Sagra dei Garagoj, dialect for the name of a local fish, takes place the last week of April in Marotta di Monodolfo in the Marche region.